Oliver Cromwell's House

The Lord Protector of England lived here. Not in the grand palace at Whitehall where he would later die, nor in Hampton Court where he ruled as England’s uncrowned king, but in this modest timber-framed house beside St Mary’s Church in the quiet Fenland city of Ely. Today, Oliver Cromwell’s House stands as the only surviving residence where the man who signed a king’s death warrant actually lived as a private citizen. Apart from Hampton Court Palace, every other home Cromwell occupied has been demolished, rebuilt beyond recognition, or lost to history. This one remains.

The building is considerably older than its most famous resident. The kitchen dates to around 1190-1200, making it one of the oldest domestic interiors in Cambridgeshire. Historic England’s listing describes the property as “mainly a C16 timber-framed and plastered house” but notes “some traces of earlier work including stone arches of circa 1380.” Portions of the original 13th century structure survive in the east wing. A 13th century doorway still stands on the route between floors.

The building was originally constructed as an open hall house, serving as the vicarage for the adjacent St Mary's Church.

Oliver Cromwell in Ely

In January 1636, Cromwell’s maternal uncle, Sir Thomas Steward, died childless, leaving his nephew a substantial inheritance. This included the house next to St Mary’s Church and, crucially, the position of tithe collector for two Ely parishes: St Mary’s and Holy Trinity. The role, known as “Farmer of the Tithes,” transformed Cromwell’s circumstances. His annual income rose from the precarious earnings of a tenant farmer to around £300-400 per year, restoring him to the ranks of acknowledged gentry after years of financial struggle.

Cromwell moved his family to Ely in the middle of 1636. He arrived with his wife Elizabeth Bourchier, whom he had married at St Giles’s Church, Cripplegate, on 22 August 1620, and their surviving children. The couple had nine children in total, though their son James had died in infancy in 1632, before the move to Ely. Two more daughters, Mary and Frances, were born in the Ely house in 1637 and 1638 respectively.

The house became home to an extended family. Cromwell’s widowed mother and unmarried sisters, who had remained in Huntingdon during his difficult years at St Ives, now rejoined him. The building can have been none too large for them all.

During his decade in Ely, Cromwell became a defender of the Fenland commoners, resisting early attempts at drainage that threatened their traditional rights. He was elected Member of Parliament for Cambridge in 1640, and it was from this house that he departed to fight in the English Civil War. His family remained in Ely while Cromwell rose to prominence on the battlefields of Marston Moor and Naseby.

The Cromwells vacated the house in 1647. Within two years, Oliver Cromwell would sign the death warrant of King Charles I. By 1653, he would be Lord Protector, the closest thing to a king England would have until the Restoration.

A Man of Contradictions

Popular imagination paints Cromwell as a dour Puritan who banned Christmas and despised pleasure. The reality was more complex. According to History Today, behind the serious face of the Lord Protector lay “a man with a taste for terrible puns, pillow fights and unseemly practical jokes.” Those who knew him said he could be deeply emotional, enjoyed music and horse racing, and contrary to the sombre black of later portraits, appears to have liked fine clothes.

One famous incident, recorded by historian Antonia Fraser, describes Cromwell at a dinner party in February 1648 being “seized with one of those extraordinary fits of humour, surely manic in origin, which had endeared him to his soldiers.” He grabbed a cushion and hurled it at the head of Edmund Ludlow, then sprinted away down the stairs, pursued by his victim armed with another cushion. Ludlow later boasted of forcing Cromwell’s descent to become “a great deal more rapid than he had expected.”

His practical jokes could be less sophisticated. Contemporary accounts describe him smearing chairs with sweetmeats at Whitehall to dirty the dresses of ladies, and ordering drums to beat suddenly in the middle of dinner, at which signal his guards would rush in, clear the table, and make off with the food.

The House Through Time

After the Cromwell family’s departure, the building continued to serve as the vicarage for St Mary’s Church, a role it maintained for over three centuries. In the 19th century, perhaps inevitably, it briefly operated as a pub called “The Cromwell Arms.”

The house remained a working vicarage until 1986. In 1988, it was purchased by the City of Ely Council, and following restoration, it opened as a tourist attraction in 1990. The building has been refurbished to show how it may have looked during Cromwell’s lifetime, with period rooms depicting domestic life in the 17th century and exhibitions exploring the English Civil War. Today it also houses Ely’s Tourist Information Centre.

Oliver Cromwell's House has a long-established reputation as one of the most actively haunted buildings in Cambridgeshire.

The Haunted House

Staff, visitors, and paranormal investigators have reported experiences spanning decades, and the phenomena appear to have intensified since the building’s conversion to a museum.

The Dark-Haired Lady

The most frequently reported apparition is a woman with dark hair wearing a long dark dress, with keys jangling at her waist. She appears in what the museum designates “The Haunted Bedroom” and vanishes as witnesses watch. The keys at her waist suggest a housekeeper or woman of authority within the household. Whether she belongs to Cromwell’s time or to the building’s longer history as a vicarage remains unknown.

The April 1979 Incident

The most detailed and disturbing account comes from April 1979, when a couple were staying at the house as guests of the Reverend Neil Munt, then vicar of St Mary’s. During the night, the woman found herself standing in the corner of the bedroom, facing a doorway that should have been on her right. Her feet touched wooden floorboards, though she knew the room was carpeted. She could not see the figure in front of her, but felt a man’s hands gripping her arms with considerable force.

She felt no fear, but rather a powerful mental connection with the unseen presence. The words “It is not my way” repeated over and over in her mind. She did not know whether she was experiencing the present or had somehow slipped into another person’s time.

The experience faded and she returned to bed. In the morning, her arms ached, and both her husband and Reverend Munt witnessed the red finger marks clearly visible on her skin. Subsequent examination of the building revealed that an original doorway had been blocked up, plastered over, and was positioned in the exact place she had faced during her experience.

The phrase “It is not my way” has been interpreted by some as Cromwell himself, perhaps referring to his repeated reluctance to accept the crown, or to his tortured conscience over the execution of Charles I. Others suggest it may be an earlier presence, predating Cromwell’s residence by centuries.

The Shoelace Poltergeist

On 3 December 1998, the Ely Standard ran the headline: “Cromwell’s Ghost Untied My Shoes!” A guide working for East Cambridgeshire District Council reported that while sitting behind his desk in the office (located in the former kitchen larder), his shoelaces were untied by unseen hands. Not once, but three times.

The phenomenon has been reported by others since. Is this the work of ghostly children, their laughter occasionally heard echoing through the upper floors? Or is it the Lord Protector himself, his fondness for practical jokes persisting beyond the grave? Given Cromwell’s documented love of pranks, the theory has a certain appeal.

Other Phenomena

The house yields a catalogue of unexplained experiences:

Footsteps echo along corridors and down staircases when no one is present.

Heavy footsteps cross the landing, heard by staff who later confirm they were alone in the building.

Children’s laughter drifts from empty rooms
In 2002, staff member Liz Jordan opened the kitchen door and saw “the bottom half of a person in a long blue skirt disappearing into a mist by the wall near the fireplace”

In 2010, a five-year-old girl watching the introductory film in the parlour was approached by another girl wearing a pink bonnet, who asked if she liked it, then said: “Don’t worry, I’m dead, and when you go upstairs you will see my father who is also dead.” The living child only mentioned this when the family reached the haunted bedroom.

A grey figure has been seen in the bedroom by staff locking up at the end of the day.

In October 2022, a visitor photographed what appears to be a figure in the kitchen window, in an area that was inaccessible at the time.

The Haunted Ely book by Margaret Haynes and Vivienne Doughty documents many of these accounts, and the museum itself maintains a “Haunted Happenings” book containing photographs and visitor reports.

The Vicar’s Wife

One account, frequently repeated, concerns a vicar’s wife who refused to move into the building, finding the atmosphere oppressive and feeling deeply uncomfortable. Given the house served as a vicarage until 1986, the number of clerical families who lived here over the centuries makes this difficult to verify, but the story persists.

After Ely: The Lord Protector’s Fate

Cromwell died at Whitehall Palace in London on 3 September 1658, aged 59, probably from a combination of malaria and kidney infection. The death of his favourite daughter Elizabeth a month earlier may have hastened his decline. He was buried in Westminster Abbey with a state funeral rivalling that of any king.

The Restoration changed everything. On 30 January 1661, the twelfth anniversary of Charles I’s execution, Cromwell’s body was exhumed from Westminster Abbey. His corpse, along with those of fellow regicides John Bradshaw and Henry Ireton, was dragged through the streets of London to Tyburn, where all three were hanged until afternoon.

The executioner required eight blows to sever Cromwell’s head from his body. It was impaled on a 20-foot spike and raised above Westminster Hall, where it remained for at least two decades. Legend has it that during a storm, the head was blown down and retrieved by a sentry, who hid it in his chimney. For the next two centuries, it passed through various private hands as a macabre curiosity, occasionally being put on public display.

In 1960, Cromwell’s head was finally given a dignified burial at Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge, where he had briefly studied as a young man. The exact location was not disclosed. Only three people at any time know precisely where it lies.

Visiting Today

Oliver Cromwell’s House is open to visitors throughout the year. Self-guided audio tours are included with admission. The route takes visitors through the oak-panelled parlour, Mrs Cromwell’s kitchen (the oldest part of the building), the study where Cromwell collected tithes, the Civil War exhibition, and finally the Haunted Bedroom, where a recreation of Cromwell’s deathbed serves as a reminder that England’s most controversial ruler began his journey to power from this modest Fenland house.

Children are encouraged to dress in period costumes, play with 17th century toys, and try their hand at historical handwriting. Ghost walks of Ely depart from the building during autumn months.

Whether you encounter anything supernatural during your visit remains, as always, a matter of chance and belief. But the building itself is undeniably atmospheric, its ancient timbers soaked in eight centuries of human drama. And somewhere in those shadows, the practical joker who signed a king’s death warrant may still be watching, waiting for the right moment to untie your shoelaces.

Sources and Further Reading

Historic England Listing: Grade II* (List Entry 1126467)
Haunted Ely by Margaret Haynes and Vivienne Doughty (2003)
“Oliver Cromwell, the Laughing Roundhead” – History Today, August 2016
Cromwell: Our Chief of Men by Antonia Fraser
“Cromwell’s Ghost Untied My Shoes!” – Ely Standard, 3 December 1998
Europaranormal: “The Ghost of Oliver Cromwell (1599-1658)”

olivercromwell.org
olivercromwellshouse.co.uk

authorlouisejeffrey Yorkshire Original Ghost Hunting Company

Louise Jeffrey

Louise Jeffrey has been interested in the unexplained since childhood, through art and writing, Louise delves in to the mysteries of life.

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